Wednesday, July 4, 2012

Globe to Sedona, AZ

From the church, I hopped onto US 70 west bound.  Had lunch in Pima at the Mesquite Taqueria (red chile carnita burrito) and rode thru the San Carlos Apache Reservation.  Monday was hot as hell and my right arm looks like hamburger from being burnt again and again over the last couple weeks.
There really wasn't much to see on US 70 - just heat and cars.
By the time I made it to Globe on Monday afternoon I was beat so I pulled into The Days Inn and napped and later attempted to wash some clothes in the hotel bathtub; not advised.  I ended up with still unclean but now wet and sour shorts the next day.  Oh, well.  Live and learn.

I was up early on the 3rd (4:30 AM) for some un-Godly reason so I got the ice bucket from my room and a washcloth from the bath and gave the bike a sponge bath;  a long, hot, sexy sponge bath......
50 miles of dirt roads will build up a cake of dust that is just awful to take back off so I was out there scrubbing longer than I thought.

July 3rd was without question the best day of riding I've had since I left Atlanta.
Blue skies, puffy white clouds, cool enough to wear long sleeves and give my burnt arms a break;  and the scenery was spectacular.

From Globe I get on Hwy. 188 headed north.
This takes you thru Tonto National Forest (no relation to Lone Ranger) and right by Theodore Roosevelt Reservoir and Wildlife Area.
Absolutely gorgeous.  This was the kind of day that bikes are made for;  long stretches of solid 2 lane country roads, few cars, and the mountains on one side with the lake on the other.






On 188 North, you pass Salt River Canyon Wilderness, Salome Wilderness, Tonto, Hellsgate, and 3 Bar Wildlife Area - all of it gorgeous.  Then you pick up Hwy 87 that takes you into Payson.
I stopped in Payson for lunch at The Buffalo Burger (or something like that).  The girl behind the bar told me about a ride to Jerome, AZ that is very popular with bikers.
Payson to Camp Verde was the best part of the day.  Long stretches of road, all by myself, crowded with fir and cedar trees.  It was like being in a movie about riding bikes - it was so perfect and peaceful, I couldn't believe it.
After nearly 30 days and almost 3,000 miles on the road I feel really in control of the bike and not merely on top of it.  Yesterday was so incredibly relaxing I just couldn't get enough.
I felt more like a pilot sailing thru an ocean of green and brown, riding up the crest of one wave, and coasting down the other side.  I reached the top of one peak just in time for The Beatles to start playing "Dear Prudence" on my Ipod - The sun is out, the sky is blue, it's beautiful, and so are you - couldn't not have planned it better.
At Camp Verde I stopped to talk to "El Duece" and get coffee.  I decided that I had time to do the side trip to Jerome so I turned left on 89A instead of right towards Senoma.
Jerome is perched right on top of a mountain.  There's just enough room for a small main street with shops and bars and restaurants - worth the 15 miles or so around the curves and up and down the valley.
I got a room at the Best Western on Airport Rd., here in Sedona.  What a perfect view.
Went downtown earlier to see the shops and just scoot around a bit.  Had BBQ at Red Rocks (great baby backs) and have been just enjoying the peace and the superb scenery.

view from the hotel room in Sedona, AZ


an old Volvo in Jerome, AZ

Just thought it was funny with all those stickers - had no idea VW's were so oppinionated

Tarantulas: Arachnids or assholes(?)


Sunday July 1st, 2012



Given how little I had eaten all day, it was amazing to see the sheer volume of vomit shooting across the fire pit there on the side of the mountain last night.




Let me back up....

I woke slowly in Lordsburg, NM on what I think was Sunday (kinda losing track of the days and dates to be honest).  After pouring gallons of coffee into my head, I loaded the bike and hit the highway for Wilcox, AZ and The Peyote Way Church of God, and my appointment with the spirit world.






It's only a couple hours down Interstate 10 to exit 340 at Wilcox, and having a few minutes to spare I went into the old downtown.  It's a true old western downtown with all the businesses facing the railroad tracks and those straight up, boxy storefronts that you see in all the old westerns.  After a chat with a couple locals in the Rex Allen park, I hit Rodney's for lunch.

Rodney is an older black gentleman with a pleasant smile and a soft voice.  He has one of those faces and smiles that you immediately like.  I ordered the gumbo and sat down next door with a soda to cool off.  Rodney brought what appeared to be a bowl of rice swimming in a thin broth, with a chicken wing, piece of fried catfish, and some cut up Vienna sausages on top.  Interesting take on the whole gumbo thing but when in Rome...

Rodney's in Wilcox, AZ

The only other person in Rodney's restaurant was Andrew, a doctoral student who has been camping out and recording bird songs for several years here in the southwest. 
Really nice, very interesting guy.
After a quick run thru Safeway for water and snacks, I took 191N up towards the church.  It's longer than it looks on the map and you follow 191 a good 20 miles or so til it ends, then you hang a right at some pistachio orchards, then follow that road to the end, where you make a left onto a dirt road - then follow that dirt road 20 miles up into the mountains.
20 miles is a long time on a dirt road, but 20 miles on an overloaded Harley road bike on a dirt road was down right torturous.  Washouts, sandpits, rocks, gravel over hard stones, and a rattlesnake in the center of the road made for a long afternoon.



Actually the ride out on Monday July 2nd.  30 miles on dirt roads to Hwy. 70, and out to Globe, AZ.
 The average land speed of a heavily packed, pirata laden, northern bound, migratory, 2008 Harley-Davidson Crossbones, over unpaved, primitive roads is 10 miles per hour; 2 hours from where I turned off of the paved road, I arrived at The Peyote Way Church of God.

Reverend Anne came out to say hello and show me around a bit.  The house is old and a bit of a mess (these are hippies after all) but has a real charm, and Anne and husband Mathew have a real "come on in and hang out for a while" feel to them.  After a brief tour of the house, where they've lived since 1977, I met Molly-horse and Buddy-dog and then Reverend Anne took me out to pick my "Ceremonial Spirit Walk" site for the evening.





Reverend Anne and Mathew discussed the "Walk"- what might happen, what might not happen, etc. so forth and then suggested I rest a bit before starting that evening.  Normally, a person would stay one day to fast, then take the "walk" the next night, and then leave the third day.  I was not inclined to stay a full 3 days so I opted to do the ceremony that night instead.

The "Ceremony" consisted mainly of me signing a couple consent forms and handing over $300.
Not sure what I expected, but that was less than spectacular.
Reverend Anne got out the Peyote Tea she had mixed up and put in a "ceremonial mason" jar especially for the occasion.  Peyote Tea looks and smells like something hand dipped from the Black Lagoon by The Creature himself.  It's hard to describe how awful it looks and smells; it's earthy and chunky and bitter and things are floating in it that may or may not have borne children in the recent past.  It is nothing you ever want to put to your lips; just the smell is gag inducing, but with instructions from Reverend Anne to take a sip every 15-20 minutes, or as often as my stomach would let me, until the entire jar is gone, I walked confidently up the path with my special batch of Lagoon Juice, a flash light, and a few bottles of water.
The Spirit World beckons!!  





After navigating thru the maze of broken cars, falling down outbuildings, and various collections of piled trash, I found my "Ceremonial Spirit Walk Site", which consisted of a lawn chair, a piece of indoor/outdoor carpet covered by a collapsible awning, and a fire-pit that I couldn't use b/c of the extra crispy dry conditions out here in the west and the various wild fires cutting across great swaths of Colorado and parts of New Mexico, and Arizona.

















Peyote tea is bad.
Let me repeat that:  Peyote tea is the most vile, noxious, puke-inducing, semi-liquid, wretched, liver rupturing hideousness that one could ever imagine ingesting.
Imagine the hind parts of a 10 mule team dragging heavy timber thru rural Mississippi on a sweltering August day then multiply by things dead and then add a stiff brew of "ground beef left in a broken refrigerator while owner was away at beach for 3 weeks".   That'll get you close.
As for the taste, add dirt, worms, and rancid seaweed.

I can not overestimate the horribleness that is the taste of this foul beast of a liquid.
But I'm a trooper; I managed to get half of it down over the next couple hours before the vomiting started.
But once it started, OH BOY, did it go!
It was that last attempt to get just a little more down that did it.  I wasn't really feeling the ceremonial spirit walk moment and thought, "I better get this process going before the sun comes up and the ghost world turns in for the day", and in my haste my stomach began a long, unhappy protest.
Like I said at the top, I hadn't eaten very much that day since I knew that this was a strong possibility, so where all of that stuff coming from stomach originated, I'll never be quite sure.
But come up it did.  I'm fairly sure that I saw a kidney and the Lone Ranger action figure that I lost as a child.
After a very, very long time hunched over the fire pit gasping for air, the vomiting subsided and the drugs began to take effect.



And then, this:






From out of the desert night it crawled, with evil on it's mind and it's eight hairy legs, it came looking for me.

If you ever find yourself in the Arizona wilderness, stoned out of your gourd on Peyote tea, and being chewed on by vicious, attack tarantulas, there's only one thing that you can do:
___________________________________________________________________________________


































_______________________________________________________________________________



From the desk of El Pinche Pirata del Fuego
July 3, 2012
Sedona, AZ





To: Ned Parker
President, Brotherhood of the Arachnids of North America
1053 Metropolitan Avenue,
New York, NY 10001 


Dear Mr. Parker,
I am writing to you in regards to an experience I recently had with a member of The Brotherhood of the Arachnids of North America, Local Chapter 251 Wilcox, AZ.
While in the mountains outside of Wilcox, on a Ceremonial Spirit Walk, I had an unpleasant interaction with a certain, Timmy, a member of your Brotherhood.
I don’t know if you have had the opportunity to commune with "The Great Spirit" while sipping Peyote Tea in the middle of the Sierra Madras at midnight, but it’s quite an unique experience and something I had been looking forward to for a long time.  I’m not sure where you stand on these subjects, but speaking with the spirit world and “becoming one with the universe” are both very high on my list of "things to do".
However, at exactly the point when the ceremonial peyote tea was reaching it’s maximum effect, your brethren, Timmy, decided to rush headlong from the darkness and trample my ankles, feet, legs, and head,  thereby ruining my opportunity to seek words of wisdom from the great beyond.  
The shrieks of terror that came from the deepest, darkest recesses of my body sent any spirit within miles running back to their caverns and caves, never to be seen or heard from again, much less offer the meaning of life that I had come seeking.
Having a tarantula the size of your average Rottweiler stomp on your body parts while in the grips of a peyote induced delirium is no kind of fun and I feel it was unacceptable behavior for Timmy to do so, and, when I pointed out to him that Los Piratas Internacional and The Brotherhood of the Arachnids of North America have a long standing pact of non-interference going back to The Cold War, he became down right belligerent.  I can’t be positive, but I am fairly sure that he used one of his eight hairy legs to flick me off when he scuttled away into the night, laughing like a mad man.
I hate to be a whiner, but this experience has left me more than a little shaken, and in light of the very unpleasant evening I had, high as I was on ceremonial peyote tea, trying to hover on a lawn chair and make myself as small as possible, in the darkness of the Arizona mountain night, all the while watching for the next kamikaze style attack from one of your members, I strongly feel, in light of our long standing personal and professional history, and in the spirit of mutual cooperation that:
  1. I should be completely re-imbursed for the cost of the ceremony
  2. Timmy should forfeit his union membership until such time as his behavior should improve enough to once again join your meritorious ranks.
I appreciate your prompt review of this incident and quick response to my request.
Sincerely yours,
EPPdF,
Los Piratas Internacional, Barbary Coast



_______________________________________________________________________________


Ned Parker, President
Brotherhood of the Arachnids of  North America
1053 Metropolitan Avenue,
New York, NY 10001 












Dear Mr. del Feugo,

While I certainly have sympathy for your unpleasant experience, and I will be having a local representative speak with Timmy, I'm afraid that having the national office of the Brotherhood of the Arachnids of North America re-imburse you for what amounts to a practical joke by a regional member is out of the question.
Perhaps, in light of the nature of your "spiritual bungee-jumping", the big lesson here might be:



                                                               Just Say No


Yours Truly,
Ned Parker, Pres.
Brotherhood of the Arachnids of  North America


_______________________________________________________________________________



From the desk of El Pinche Pirata del Fuego
July 3, 2012
Sedona, AZ






To: Ned Parker
President, Brotherhood of the Arachnids of North America
1053 Metropolitan Avenue,
New York, NY 10001 


Dear Mr. Parker,
Your cavalier attitude towards this issue is very disturbing.
As you well know, it was Los Piratas Internacional that helped prevent what might have been "the arachnid holocaust" when we used "borrowed" vessels to provide safe passage to millions of arachnids, centipedes, and a few walking sticks, from communist ruled eastern Europe:




(Nikita Khrushchev gives the signal for the extermination and expatriation from communist held territories of millions of arachnids.)






A little sensitivity and cooperation on this issue would be appropriate.


Sincerely yours,
EPPdF,
Los Piratas Internacional, Barbary Coast


_______________________________________________________________________________

                                       

Ned Parker, President
Brotherhood of the Arachnids of North America
1053 Metropolitan Avenue,
New York, NY 10001








Dear Mr. Sissy-Pants,

I'm very sorry that you're such a weenie and you shrieked like a little girl when you saw an "icky spider".  Get over it.
We're not giving you any money.

I wish Timmy would have sat on your chest and broke wind.


(This little girl can nap with a spider on her face; what's wrong with you, sissy?)





Yours Truly,
Ned Parker, Pres.
Brotherhood of the Arachnids of North America


_______________________________________________________________________________



From the desk of El Pinche Pirata del Fuego
July 3, 2012
Sedona, AZ







To: Ned Parker
President, Brotherhood of the Arachnids of North America
1053 Metropolitan Avenue,
New York, NY 10001 





Dear Mr. Parker,

It's unfortunate that you're not taking this incident more seriously.  I may have to take matters in my own hands.





Sincerely yours,
EPPdF,
Los Piratas Internacional, Barbary Coast



_______________________________________________________________________________




Ned Parker, President
Brotherhood of the Arachnids of  North America
1053 Metropolitan Avenue,
New York, NY 10001 





Dear Poorly Hung, Weak Kneed, Weenie-Man,

First, we at The Brotherhood do not like threats; not at all.  
(You have to sleep sometime, don't ya'?)

Second, Raid?
Really?
I guess all "us bugs look the same to you" don't we ya' jerk!?!

Racist.

Do a little reading next time you squat to pee.  
The Arachnids have a a couple billion years of evolution AND 2 extra legs on the average insect.  We are not the same.
I don't appreciate you lumping us all in together like that!

Insensitive dick.


Yours Truly,
Ned Parker, Pres.

Brotherhood of the Arachnids of  North America


_______________________________________________________________________________



From the desk of El Pinche Pirata del Fuego
July 3, 2012
Sedona, AZ





To: Ned Parker
President, Brotherhood of the Arachnids of North America
1053 Metropolitan Avenue,
New York, NY 10001 

Mister Parker,

You have issues, pal.
Maybe you and Timmy should seek couples counseling.




Sincerely yours,
EPPdF,
Los Piratas Internacional, Barbary Coast



_______________________________________________________________________________





Ned Parker, President
Brotherhood of the Arachnids of  North America
1053 Metropolitan Avenue,
New York, NY 10001 







Dear Mr. Racist Homophobe,

Pppfffftttttttttttt!




Run and hide, girlie-man.

Yours Truly,
Ned Parker, Pres.

Brotherhood of the Arachnids of  North America



_______________________________________________________________________________





So, to recap:

I drove 20 miles down a dirt road to a commune in the mountains, drank an expensive, awful, semi-hallucinogenic liquid, a spider crawled across my boot, and then I couldn't sleep til the sun came up.

The end.







Tuesday, July 3, 2012

Ummm.....Wow!

And you all get to say that you knew me way back when!
How the heck did I end up with readers in Russia!?!
Welcome, Comrade!
Здравствуйте! Как поживаете?



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Sunday, July 1, 2012

This morning and last night

Lordsburg, NM



I was about half way to Wilcox, AZ when the storm kicked up.
According to my GPS, it's about 6 hours from Alamogordo, NM to the church in Wilcox, AZ.
An hour and a half or so down White Sands Blvd. (also 82) to Las Cruces where you pick I 10, make a right, and bear down for a 4 hour blast thru the 100 + degree heat.

I had gone back to the Verizon store in Alamogordo to get help transferring data from the dead (now suddenly reanimated) phone to the new Iphone.  Got to see Miss Alexis, who was so helpful and sweet the night before, again and got instructions on how to transfer the data via Itunes.
Since I wanted to get my contacts transferred into the new phone before I got out on the road (having learned the necessity of having a working phone while broken down - twice) I decided to take Miss Alexis's suggestion of Hi-D-Ho for lunch.

Hi-D-Ho is an old style, drive-up diner, similar to Dino's in Winter Haven or the original Varsity in Atlanta.  Talked to the owner, Robin, about my trip.  She took my picture to put on her wall to join what looked like thousands of others and I took several of the diner to put here, on the blog. (still trying to retrieve from old phone).

After a very enjoyable, "Tiger Burger" plus onion rings and sweet tea, I cranked up the machine and got out onto 82 South.

I had been told many times how there was nothing to see out in west Texas and beyond.  That you really had to just put the hammer down and grin and bear it for 2-3 days of hard riding thru heat and dust and emptiness.  And, while there's certainly some truth in that, for me I've found an unexpected beauty in it.  After San Antonio, I 10 takes you thru land hardly touched by man since those great paleolithic seas receded eons ago.  The landscape is almost universally brown with occasional dots of greenish-brown shrubs and weak, desperate trees struggling out in the sand and heat to keep a foothold.  The only break being the odd outcropping of limestone that pop up here and there along side the road.  But instead of being bored or wanting to just get thru it, I found a sort of rugged beauty to the landscape.  I found it to be oddly calming and serene to look out and see that desolation stretch out to the horizon.  Maybe it's being on the bike; the feeling of being more connected to the landscape, being more a part of it than you might experience in a car.  And when the interstate cut right thru the limestone outcroppings, I was exhilirated and revived and happy to be there in the middle of it.

The sound of a big V-twin at 75 miles an hour, echoing off sheer limestone walls 50 foot high on either side of the hiway was absolutely epic and looking out at all that desolate beauty filled my heart and soul with peace and I felt a sudden connection to all of the those lone travelers and explorers that had come this way before, whether in cars and trucks and motorcycles, or in wagons, on horses and mules.

From Velasquez to Lewis and Clark to Sir Edmund Hillary, men have been wondering what's on the other side of that river, just past that curve in the horizon, or out beyond that mountain, and I felt a strange connection to them.  That burning to go out and see what's to be seen, to find out what's to be found, to live and experience the things that don't exist in the place you were born and raised.
You have to become a part of the picture to really experience it; you have to brush yourself into some corner of that painting in order to really know what the original master had in mind. 
On the bike you feel every part of the landscape you're passing thru and I stopped feeling like a guest, an observer, or a tourist, and started feeling a sense of belonging to it, whatever that moment of "it" was.
Even in the 100+ degree heat, the wind, the rain, the tiredness, the breakdowns, and maybe because of all of those things, I could feel a little of those early travelers blood in my veins, and that irresistable urge to go on despite those momentary hardships. And even when I stood for hours on the side of the road waiting for a tow back to civilization, I felt a peacefulness fill up inside me that made it ok to be there, right there, at that exact place and time, as if I had joined that long stream of history that pulled those others along, and the tranquility from that sense of being and belonging over took the sunburn and thirst and exhaustion.  For every second of those moments of peace, I paid in hours of heat and miles of hiway, but they were worth it at twice the price.

Coming thru the limestone cuts on I10 in Texas and seeing the wide open plains unfold in front of me, or seeing the cliffs and mountains where once the Apache and Comanche ruled and looking over their vast open kingdom of fir and cedar covered mountains, has been positively exhilirating.
Odd moments stick out, like last night when I looked up at the clouds above me, here in Lordsburg, NM, and saw, perfectly formed, the face of a child staring down at me.  I could see the eyes right down to the lashes, a beautifully formed nose, the lips and ears and even the little baby fat around the neck and chin.  It was utterly breathtaking and I don't recall ever seeing anything like it before, and even in my state of exhaustion and aggravation for not making it to the church as planned, I felt like I was exactly where I was supposed to be: sitting on a sidewalk, outside a hotel, watching the clouds pass over, in Lordsburg, NM, 2,200 miles from home, with that giant toddler with his angel's face, staring down and watching over me.